By: Chris Mooneyham                                                chrismooneyham.wordpress.com

 

The downtown Roswell scene has exploded into a combination of classic-houses-turned-into-restaurants and a multi-age, watering-hole-mecca. The most obvious example of this ideal is Roux on Canton, a southern-style restaurant with Cajun influence.

Over the last decade in metro Atlanta, many of the formerly dormant local city squares have seen a revival in culture and business. Arguably, the restaurant scene is leading the way.

When considering the life of owner and operator Zach Bramblett, Roux’s fit into the emerging scene is a natural one. His family owns three other unique metro Atlanta restaurants: Magnolia Café, 946 South, and a downtown Roswell neighbor, Ceviche. Bramblett says, “I was born to do this. That’s why I traveled around the world to develop my tastes. I knew one day, I would be in this situation.” Certainly, that experience has led to an eclectic mix.

The sign on the sidewalk announces proudly, “Raw Oysters, Cold Beer”, and the plaque on the wall reminds us “Beer is proof that God wants us to be happy.”  The atmosphere is cozy, relaxed, and with a perfect amount of light, does not relate a seedy air.

Obviously, the beer menu includes domestics and imports, but Roux is a craft beers kind of place. Its selection is north of $5.00 and includes Sweetwater (original and 420), Sierra Nevada, Founders Red Rye, Stone IPA, Bell’s Porter, and others in that vein.

However, it’s the original drinks that have patrons trying something different every night. Roux’s two signature creations, Hurrouxcane and Rouxster, are the biggest hits. When I approached loyal patron Jack Armstrong and asked about his double-fisted possession of the aforementioned cocktails he said, “Try them back-to-back, their fruity as hell, but you won’t care by the end of the second one!”

The current wine list is spread from California, New Zealand, France and Argentina. The average bottle and glass was found at $30 and $8, respectfully. While the drinks are impressive, the food is the staple. The appetizer and snacks portion offers fair you would expect, but they leave competitors in the dust with the shear attention to taste.

The Cajun Flatbread ($10) features Andouille sausage, crawfish, onion, bell pepper, blue cheese and chipotle ranch. The rest of the beginners are dotted by Fried Green Tomatoes ($6), Fried Pickle Chips ($5), Gator Bites served with a creole remoulade ($10), Pimento Cheese Fritters ($6), and Flash Fried Calamari ($8). If you are a little full from sampling everyone’s starters and want a sandwich instead of an entrée, try the Over-Stuffed Po’Boy ($9-$15).

Served on a toasted baguette with the creole remoulade, the choice is then whether to add shrimp, oyster, crawfish, catfish, sausage, or all of the above. One member of my party ordered the Po’ Boy with sausage and even at 6’5 and 270, he couldn’t finish it. Of course, he had four beers prior.

If you still have room for an entrée, there is no question what my recommendation would be, the Salmon n’ Grits ($16). You guessed it. Even with nothing more than grilled salmon and jalapeno-cheddar grits, this is one of the best meals to come my way all year.

The fish is perfectly seared and not to watery. Also, it slices without crumbling. Any salmon expert knows how important this is. As for the grits, the taste of cheese is strong but not overbearing.

One of the keys to this fan favorite is the diced jalapenos as opposed to chopped-or whole-just thrown into the mix. The decision to dice the jalapenos creates a balance of heat and taste. Many times, an establishment will make the mistake in the consistency. Roux’s spin on our Southern delicacy is creamy, but not like mush.

As the clock strikes 10 p.m. the customer base begins to take a noticeable shift to the younger set. DJ’s, karaoke and live bands are present nearly every late night. If there was one negative from my experience it would be the noise. The size of the joint is intimate, so when sitting in the front, the speakers from the entertainment are right on top of you.

The decibel level will wrench up a notch, but if you take Mr. Armstrong’s advice about the drinks, you will have a great time. As you can see my visit to Roux on Canton was tremendous. Clearly, I have found a new haunt for the next few months. I wonder if I will ever get tired of the cheddar grits.